I'm writing from a funny little cyber cafe in Rosarito Beach, Mexico. I was so excited to see it. The phone in the room won't hook up to my laptop. I've taken a lot of pictures to show you, so hopefully I'll get those put up when I get back.
I can't stand this keyboard. The letters have mostly rubbed off and the keys are gummy, yeeee.
There is something very surreal and vaguely dangerous about this place. I keep thinking I'll get pulled over and thrown in some scary Mexican jail. We arrived at night and had to drive through a fowl swamp full of shit gas to get here. It was unbelievable, easily the most disgusting thing I'd ever smelled. It stung our eyes and didn't clear for a long while. Just when that finally cleared a bit we were hit with the smell of horse or cow manure.
From the highway, in the dark distance, we saw this tall glowing figure. I looked at Beau and said, "Is that Mary or...a beer?" It was a giant bottle of beer. I'm kind of thinking it was an appropriately juxtaposed Mexican hallucination. Mary or beer.
In the lobby of our hotel there were groups of drunk teenagers staggering by. The legal drinking age is eighteen which accounts for the junior revelry.
At dinner there was a woman wailing like a lost and lonely ghost. It went on and on. Wail, wail, wail. Finally I sought her out and tried to make her feel better. She was standing at the bar crying and saying, "I want to go home," over and over. Apparently she had had a fight with her boyfriend who was sitting in front of her, nursing a beer, and trying to look like he had nothing at all to do with this loudly crying woman standing right behind him.
She told me that he was an asshole. Looking injured by this he turned around and said that she'd thrown a beer bottle at his head. Then they started fighting. I offered to help but don't really know what I could have done anyway. I just can't let someone cry like that without trying to help somehow. Even if it is entirely their own stupid overly-dramatic fault. They were with another couple and looked okay after awhile so I was able to get back to the thrilling conversation we were having with this couple from Tijuana. She was a children's dentist and I don't know what he did, other than complain about her. Apparently she loves her little French poodle more than anyone in their family. He told us that he's learned how to wag his tail for her but he needs to work on his bark.
Then there were the fireworks. Loud, loud fireworks. M80's and God knows what else. We'd see a flash and then brace for the explosion, boom, boom, boom, over and over. They're legal here.
Beau said that last night when I was sleeping I told him I saw eyeballs floating around me in the room. Apparently I was particularly interested in pointing out the big purple eye. He didn't sleep too well after that. Poor kid. I would have been pretty freaked out if my mother had done something like that when I was little.
When I woke up and opened the curtains there were groups of horses galloping by. Horses on the beach. You don't see that kind of thing in California. When I told Beau to come see he said, "I don't see any horses but there's a big brown cow over there." A cow on the beach? There's another thing we don't see at home.
The beach is beautiful though. We played in the water when the tide was low and picked up sand dollars and sea shells. I've never found a whole sand dollar before, always pieces.
We rented little ATV wave runners and rode up and down the beach. That was fun. We visited the horses and I gave them lots of hugs and kisses. There was a big beautiful white one who was so nice and friendly towards me. I kissed his mouth. Yum. Big horsey mouth kisses. Their noses are sooo soft. I love horses. I miss riding so much.
I wish I had my scuba gear here with me. I bet it's really interesting down there. There are tires and other strange things all over the beach.
I read that the grey whales are coming down to calve. How wonderful that would be, to meet one. They are friendly towards people here. They approach these canoes called puntas and scratch themselves. They let people pet them. I kind of worry about that though but apparently there are people here who protect them. I hope so.
Animals are treated pretty poorly in general here. There are dogs running loose everywhere, hungry, no owners, so sad. I had a conversation on the beach today with these guys who are silver vendors. They were talking about how poor people are and how hard it is to live here. How wide the gulf between the wealthy and the poor is. There are little kids working the beach and the main street. They can't be more than seven or eight years old. Their parents send them down from Tijuana to work selling beads and rosaries to the tourists. They can't afford to send them to school.
I'm so tired and have to get going. Just wanted to check in and say hello. Glad to see we're up to speed again. it was slow going there for a few days. Does that mean the new servers are in place?
Love you guys,